My San Miguel de Allende travel guide is perfect for first-time visitors! Is it safe for tourists? What's the best airport to fly into, and how do you get to the city center? I'll take you through all the top questions. Discover where to stay, top restaurants, the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende, and more!

San Miguel de Allende (SMA) had been on my list of places to visit since it was named the #1 city in the world by Travel and Leisure in 2017. It seemed the perfect destination for Jake and me to celebrate our 7th anniversary.

I love anything with a European vibe. Jake leans towards destinations that have a "realness" to them, where they aren't picture perfect. SMA fit the bill. 

I would describe San Miguel de Allende as a mix of Europe, Mexico, and Morocco. It's charming with cobblestoned streets and colorful buildings, boasts amazing Mexican cuisine, and has a touch of unordered chaos to it.

By chaos, I mean you'll be walking down a lovely cobblestoned street complete with azalea-covered walls, turn the corner, and bam...there's a tangle of about 500 wires and electricity cables.

For some, things like that would be "a shame", while Jake and I look at that tangled mess and laugh.

One thing that really stands out in San Miguel de Allende is the restaurant and rooftop scene. The food and drinks are incredible, and the prices are lower than what you'll find in a typical American city.

If you're looking for a getaway filled with rooftop dining, market shopping, pleasant weather, and charming boutique hotels...SMA will not disappoint.

This map shows everything listed in my San Miguel de Allende travel guide. Click the icon on the top left to see a list view of each pinned location. Select the top right button to enlarge the map (which will automatically save it to YOUR Google Maps). To access this map once saved, open Google Maps (on your phone/computer/tablet), click the "You" on the very bottom, scroll to the bottom and select "Maps". Your newly saved map should be listed at the top.

• Purple - hotel recommendations (luxury and mid-range)
• Blue - restaurants, rooftops, and coffee shops
• Black - best things to do in San Miguel de Allende

Where is San Miguel de Allende

First things first…where is San Miguel de Allende? SMA is located in the Bajio mountains in Guanajuato, Mexico (think central Mexico). This colorful mountain town is 170 miles northwest of Mexico City, making it a popular getaway for locals.

The location is a nice change from the typical oceanside resorts most tourists come to Mexico for. San Miguel de Allende is perfect if you've done the typical Mexico beach vacation and are looking for something different, unique, and filled with personality. 

What is SMA known for?

San Miguel de Allende is now known as an art town. It's attracted artists from around the globe over the last few decades and has several renowned art schools, including the Instituto Allende.

SMA became a UNESCO World Heritage Site in 2008 and has been growing in popularity ever since. The city was voted the #1 city in the world by Travel and Leisure's World's Best Awards two years in a row, 2017 and 2018. This has brought an influx of American visitors.

The city has a large expat community consisting mainly of Americans, Europeans, and Canadians. Because of this, English (or at least basic English) is pretty standard in restaurants, shops, and hotels.

The walkable Centro (city center), colorful buildings, cobblestoned streets, picturesque rooftop restaurants, lively markets, art galleries, and temperate mountain weather have made this a favorite destination for visitors around the globe. 

Is San Miguel de Allende safe?

With all the negative press Mexico has received regarding safety, asking "Is San Miguel de Allende safe?" is a logical question. From my trips and personal experience, SMA feels perfectly safe.

Because the city has a large expat population from America, Canada, and Europe, and considering the economy depends on expats continuing to come to the city and spend money, keeping the city safe is a priority.

I felt 100% safe jogging by myself in the mornings and exploring the city alone in the afternoons. I also know young women who have rented Airbnbs for weeks at a time and worked remotely.

It was also common to see police around town keeping an eye on things.

So, is San Miguel de Allende safe? I personally think it is, and I felt safer there than I have in most major US cities.

Do note, like many tourist cities, petty crime does happen. Don't keep your valuables within easy reach, like a cell phone hanging out of your back pocket or a handbag sitting on the floor of a restaurant.

If you'd like a detailed look at whether San Miguel is safe for tourists, read my in-depth post.

Getting to SMA | Airports and transportation to the city center

Though there isn't an airport located in the city, getting to San Miguel de Allende is a breeze. You have two main San Miguel de Allende airport options.

The Leon airport, BJX, is a popular option with Americans as there are several non-stop flights from major US cities. Getting to San Miguel de Allende from BJX will take about 1.5 hours by car. I highly recommend booking a private car or shuttle to ensure a safe and easy arrival. See next section.

The second San Miguel de Allende airport option is Queretaro Airport, QRO. Though it may look like it's closer than BJX, it's still about an hour to an hour and fifteen away. 

Lastly, some visitors choose to fly into Mexico City airport, MEX, as there are often cheap fares available. Get ready though, it’s at least a three-hour drive to San Miguel from MEX.

As mentioned earlier, I highly recommend booking a private car or shuttle to get from MEX, QRO, or BJX to San Miguel de Allende. Getting to San Miguel de Allende will take anywhere from one to four hours, depending on which airport you choose. 

Having a driver is not only safe but more enjoyable. You won’t have to hassle at the rental car counter, worry about getting lost, and can enjoy the views on your way to the city. Plus, you really don't need a car once in the city. Parking is also a headache.

I use Bajiogo shuttle and highly recommend them. BJX to San Miguel de Allende is $35 per person, each way. Private and shared shuttles are available for all three airports, MEX, QRO, and BJX, starting at $135.

Where to stay in San Miguel de Allende

If you can find a decent rate at Rosewood San Miguel, I highly recommend booking that hotel. The location is perfect as it's just outside the city center. You won't have to deal with the noise that comes with being in the center, yet you're a quick walk away.

Walk across the street from Rosewood, and you'll find the new Hyatt NUMU Boutique Hotel. We enjoyed our stay there (still prefer Rosewood with their large footprint and amenities). While the rooftop pool at NUMU was wonderful, it was very small, and I can see the lack of chairs being a problem when the hotel is full. The breakfast/restaurant is wonderful, and the rooms are modern and spacious.

Another alternative would be the most adorable boutique hotel steps from Rosewood San Miguel, Hotel Matilda. It was voted the #1 hotel in Mexico by Travel and Leisure in 2019. Casa 1810 is another nice boutique hotel in the city center.

Live Aqua is a trendy new hotel located just north of the city center. The rooftop pool is gorgeous and the overall vibe is a mix of BoHo and modern.

How many days to spend in San Miguel de Allende

A weekend in San Miguel de Allende would give just enough time to get a feel for the city, shop the markets, hit a few rooftops, and visit a handful of art galleries. 

Four days would be perfect if you book a hotel with an awesome pool and want time to relax.

Jake and I stayed a full week (on two separate occasions) because we were working remotely and not sightseeing the entire time. This would have been too long for the average tourist...unless you want multiple days lying by the hotel pool.

Getting around the city center (Centro)

The city center is 100% walkable. Just be sure to wear comfortable shoes as many of the streets are uneven cobblestones. Most shops, sights, and restaurants are no more than 20 minutes away on foot from the very center of the city.

Public buses and taxis are available, but with how cheap and widely available Uber is, I would just book an Uber when you need a ride. If you do use a taxi, make sure it’s an official taxi painted in white and green.

The best time to visit San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Spring is the best time to visit San Miguel de Allende. You won't have to worry about rain as it's dry season, and you'll enjoy daytime temperatures in the 70s and 80s.

Bring a light jacket or sweater if you visit in early spring. The mornings and evenings can get quite chilly. By mid-spring (April) it will be perfectly comfortable to wear a t-shirt or dress day and night.

Seeing the jacaranda trees in full bloom is another reason why early spring is the best time to visit San Miguel de Allende. The contrast of the lavender-colored blooms against the terracotta tones of the buildings is stunning. 

Keep in mind that holidays, like Easter, bring an influx of visitors. Avoid all holidays if you want to skip the crowds and steep hotel prices.

Best things to do in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

Parroquia de San Miguel Arcangel Church – the very centerpiece of San Miguel and one of the most photographed churches in Mexico. Self-taught architect Zeferino Gutierrez apparently came up with the design after seeing postcards and lithographs from Gothic churches in Europe.

Entrance is free, so a quick visit is a no-brainer. Be sure to wander around the surrounding square, El Jardin, before and after your visit. 

Join a walking tour – if you’ve been following Abroad with Ash, you’ll know I’m a huge fan of walking tours. It’s the perfect way to learn the city's history and get a feel for where things are. Your tour guide is also a wonderful resource for recommendations on restaurants and things to do in the city. 

There are also several food tours to choose from, like this Tacos and Tequila food tour or this evening food tour.

Take pictures on Aldama street - the most asked question I've received from my posts and stories on Instagram is "where was this street?". Aldama Street is one of the most Instagrammable places in San Miguel de Allende. Arrive first thing in the morning to take photos. During the day, there's a continuous stream of tourists snapping pictures.

Mercado de Artesanias and surrounding markets – one of the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende is shopping the markets. There are several back-to-back markets around Mercado de Artesanias.

Start here and wander through the buildings and twisting narrow streets filled with tiny shops selling cheap trinkets, colorful home décor, textiles, and jewelry.

To be honest, a lot of the items are cheap. But I did manage to find a few hidden gems. One of which was a shop selling glassware for $1.25 a glass. The cups, goblets, and Margherita glasses were very similar to what you would find at Pottery Barn...for a tenth of the cost.

Outside of some additional pottery items, that’s all I bought in San Miguel. Even so, the 2 hours I spent wandering the markets was time well spent.

Stop at Lavanda for a coffee break...it's in the heart of the market area and my favorite coffee shop in San Miguel.

Take a walk up to the El Mirado viewpoint  – this is one of the best viewpoints in the city and a must on the list of things to do in San Miguel de Allende. I would often walk up here in the morning when it was quiet and empty.

Visit Fabrica La Aurora – located in an old textile factory, this is the place to get your fill of art, sculptures, and other artisan products. It’s a showcase of artists who live in San Miguel.

You could spend an entire afternoon browsing the galleries, looking for the next painting that will adorn your entryway or the perfect sculpture to sit on your patio.

These are true art galleries, so don't expect low prices. Whether you plan to buy something or not, it's fun to check out regardless.

There are also several on-site restaurants and cafes.

Horseback riding – this was my favorite activity during our trip! Jake and I did the private sunset horseback riding experience and loved every minute. The views were incredible.

The owner and our guides made sure we were comfortable with our horses and had a memorable experience. I can’t recommend joining a horseback riding tour enough! It’s a great way to see something outside the city.

If you're looking for something off the beaten path (literally), this is one of the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende.

Additional horseback riding experiences

Visit as many rooftops as possible - perfect introduction to the next topic.

restaurants - where to eat and drink

Best rooftops in San Miguel de Allende - for food and ambiance

The rooftop scene in San Miguel is where it's at. Once Jake and I arrived in San Miguel de Allende and had our first rooftop dinner, we canceled all dinner reservations that were not on a rooftop.

Perfect evening weather combined with spectacular sunsets and views; it just didn't make sense to not dine on a rooftop. The below places were my favorite by far. These are the absolute best rooftops in San Miguel de Allende for dinner and drinks.

Quince - voted the #1 rooftop in the world, this is a great place to share an assortment of appetizers and sushi rolls. The drinks are delicious, most notably the Black Forest made with activated charcoal, mezcal, lime, and rosemary syrup.

Ask to sit on the side facing the mountains to watch the sunset. The other side overlooks the cathedral and is a good option if it's cloudy or it's already dark and you want to see the cathedral lit up.

Atrio - the food and drinks really stand out. Our favorite items included: mezcal cocktail with kiwi and pineapple, tuna ceviche, softshell crab tacos, asparagus coated in sliced almonds and orange honey, and the orange duck.

La Posadita - located right next to Quince, and by right next to I mean you could throw a lime on their patio. La Posadito is perfect if you want a casual vibe. The guacamole is one of my favorites and they are known for their frozen pina coladas. 

Luna Rooftop (at Rosewood San Miguel)- this is the one rooftop that offers a different view than the rest of the rooftops listed. Instead of being in the center of the city and nestled right next to the cathedral...Luna rooftop is just outside Centro and offers views of the city center and cathedral from afar.

I will admit, this is the most expensive place for drinks and appetizers (think $18 to $23 vs. $11 to $17), but I still think it's worth at least one visit for a different view/perspective. 

I would stick to drinks and skip the food. Not only are prices higher here, but the food is also better at the other places listed.

La Unica - beautiful views overlooking the city center and cathedral, paired with an extensive drink menu, eight different types of tacos to choose from, among other classic Mexican dishes. The chocolate bomb dessert was pretty darn good. La Unica had a party atmosphere without being too over the top.

Other restaurants to note

The Restaurant - if you're not feeling a rooftop, The Restaurant is a lovely spot with a gorgeous Moroccan courtyard. The menu is an assortment of "global comfort" food. Thursday nights are burger night, which I heard several locals/expats rave about. 

La Azotea - a great rooftop spot for lunch. The jicama tacos are SO good. It's more like a sushi roll taco than a true taco with fried leeks, crispy shrimp, and spicy mayo.

1826 (at Rosewood San Miguel) - Sunday brunch at 1826 is an experience. Though, the price has tripled between our first stay in 2021 ($26) and 2025 ($65).

This is a good example of how prices across the board have soared in San Miguel. While the increase wasn't quite as substantial elsewhere, we did notice quite a jump in everything from hotel rates to coffee shop prices.

1826's Sunday brunch includes an assortment of live food stations with Mexican classics, unlimited coffee, tea, juice, and an à la carte item of your choice.

This was one of the best meals during both our trips. The courtyard is gorgeous, and the service is outstanding.

I recommend eating extra light the night before so you can enjoy all the stations!

Lavanda Cafe - the best coffee shop in San Miguel de Allende (don't worry, I tried them all and will be publishing a San Miguel coffee shop post soon). I visited Lavanda at least once a day during both trips to SMA.

Try the lavender latte, or my personal favorite, the mareado lavanda. This drink took me back to my espresso freddo days in Greece. Frothed espresso, poured over ice, with lavender and a touch of brown sugar.

Ki'bok Coffee SMA - after gaining quite the following in Tulum (Ki'bok's first location), a second cafe was soon opened in San Miguel de Allende. The cold brew is especially good and this is one of the best spots to hang for a while as there's plenty of seating and a sunny rooftop patio.

Zenteno - solid iced Americanos, insanely good mini-pies and tarts, and a charming little atmosphere.

Andy's Taco Cart - I can't not include Andy's taco cart when discussing San Miguel de Allende restaurants...even if it's not technically a restaurant. Andy's was, by far, Jake's favorite taco cart. I say Jake because it was Jake's mission on our first trip to try all the top taco carts.

Not only is Andy beyond friendly, but his el pastor tacos truly were the best. The cart opens up at 7:00 pm and can be found on the corner of Hidalgo and Insurgentes. In fact, these tacos were so delicious, Jake would often get an "after-dinner" snack on our way back to the hotel.

In summary

I hope this travel guide helps with planning your upcoming trip. From the best things to do in San Miguel de Allende to the top restaurants, rooftops, and coffee shops, these are my top recommendations.

Bring your camera, plan to spend lots of time outdoors, book as many rooftop dinners as possible, and snag a few souvenirs from the markets. I'm sure you'll fall in love with this colorful city and (like me) wonder why it took you so long to visit!

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A Detailed Travel Guide + TOP Things to do in San Miguel de Allende, Mexico

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Come back after your trip! Share your top picks for restaurants, rooftops, and things to do in San Miguel de Allende in the comments below!